allwood

WINTER PLANTING

mark@allwood.co.nz (Mark Hutching) — Tue, 29 Jun 2021 01:37:05 GMT

Why plant trees in winter.

There is an old saying that the best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. The next best time to plant during the year is autumn and winter. At that time of the year trees are either going into dormancy or are dormant (not growing). Consequently, there is less transplant stress on the tree being planted. Root disturbance is not a critical issue and the tree has time to "settle in" prior to spring growth.

Most people think spring is the time to plant and that is OK. At Allwood, we have the knowledge to advise our clients on how to plant and more importantly, how to look after their tree once planted. So while it is great being able to plant in winter, it is possible to plant at any time of the year so long as your trees are planted appropriately and then maintained.

Happy tree planting

Tree planting - this Autumn

Wed, 17 Apr 2019 23:11:54 GMT

With autumn now here and the soil moisture content increasing I believe it is the best time of year for planting trees and shrubs, followed by the winter and spring months.

Trees and shrubs planted in autumn establish well through winter and are ready come spring to burst out with new seasons growth, if you've put in the hard work. As Allwood Trees moves into winter we have a very busy tree planting season lined up. This is also when we pot on all our ornamentals. All our senior staff are qualified and passionate gardeners so we are more than happy to help you with advice on how to select and plant the right trees so that they grow well in your garden.

And, you can check out our planting guide if you still have questions.

Mark Hutching

Care of your tree

Sun, 24 Feb 2019 09:04:21 GMT

Water is the most important element of care. Too much or too little water after planting may cause plant loss. Try to water early morning or early evening so that the plants receive most of the water and to reduce water evaporation on hot days.

The site should be thoroughly watered after planting, even in winter. Ensure the root ball and surrounding soil is moist. Monitor the soil; if rainfall is inadequate, deeply water the soil around the tree by leaving the hose trickling for up to 2 hours (or longer if required), on a regular basis.
After planting, the tree should still be watered on a regular basis till it is established. Water your tree every day for the first few days, then twice a week, then once a week, with about a bucket full (20 litre) of water each time. It can take up to six months for a tree to become established and during this time you will need to monitor it. Most trees will let you know when they need watering - the leaves will wilt or lose their sheen etc. If you are unsure whether you need to water, dig a small hole near the roots to inspect the moisture level. Slow trickle watering is recommended to ensure the whole root ball gets water.
Refrain from watering deciduous trees as soon as the leaves start dropping in autumn and cease during whole dormant period. Resume during spring when buds start to burst. Do not over water your tree. It is just as bad to over water as to under water. If tree roots are water logged for sustained periods, they rot and therefore, cannot support the leaf matter in the tree canopy. (Your tree may need watering a little less often if spring is wet).
On a hot day one square metre of bare soil can lose up to 2 litres of water. Cover the root zone area with 75mm to 100mm of either bark mulch or pea straw (don't use lawn clippings). This will assist with water retention and also reduce weeds.
No fertiliser or manure is to be mixed with the soil at planting, as this may cause root damage. Apply fertiliser to the soil surface and water in. Use compost instead of manure. Al!wood Trees recommends Nitrophoska Blue as an all purpose fertiliser. Yates also produces the "Thrive" range of garden fertilisers that are excellent for a range of trees and shrubs.
Staking is essential. Drive two stakes into the ground close to the tree but avoiding the root ball. Secure tree firmly using tree tie. Stakes and ties should be left holding tree for up to two years after planting until roots are established. Ties should be checked regularly during growing season to ensure they are not cutting into the tree.
Do not, unless advised by Al!wood staff, build the soil higher up the stem than it was in the original container. To do so can cause damage to the tree.

If you have any concerns in regard to your tree's health, please call to make an appointment with a member of the staff. Please note this only applies in the first season of growth.

Trees are the bones of your garden

Sun, 24 Feb 2019 08:52:12 GMT

The basis of garden design is to first create the structure or bones of the garden which then allows the rest of the garden to flow from there. Trees can be regarded as the bones of your garden because they are the framework, creating shelter from wind and noise, create focal, or feature points in the garden and form the basis of the garden theme.

You may wish to have a formal garden, structured with layers from lawn to the trees. The backdrop of this garden will be the feature trees that frame the garden area. Alternatively, an informal garden will be designed with focal points and the balance of planting radiating from there. A New Zealand garden is an example of this design.

Talk to your local tree nursery about suitable trees for each type of garden design and in particular the garden design you want to achieve. A good example of a formal garden design is the pleached hedge which is generally the backdrop to lower planting. A pleached hedge is essentially a "hedge on sticks". The sticks being the tree stem with a clipped canopy above. Hornbeam, Portugeuse laurel, Bay laurel, Evergreen Magnolia and many other trees are used for pleaching.

If having a landscape architect design your garden make sure he or she is aware of your design requirements and also ensure they match trees to your section size, design requirements and location of trees on your property.

New Subdivision planting

Sun, 24 Feb 2019 08:52:12 GMT

With the increased building activity in Christchurch in new subdivisions it is very important for property owners who would like to create a nice garden to prepare the garden areas before planting.

The reason for this is that when developed new subdivisions have achieve a level of soil/land compaction to satisfy building foundation requirements. Compaction is undertaken over the whole subdivision which means garden areas are included. This compacted soil makes it difficult for trees and shrubs to get established without proper ground preparation.

It is important to dig tree pits twice as wide and twice as deep as the rootball, backfill the hole to the correct depth with a mixture of compost and the original soil and then plant. With digging a big tree pit you are giving the tree roots space to grow and develop and therefore the tree will grow much better than just digging a hole the size of the tree rootball.

Where shrubs are being planted dig over the garden areas and bring in compost or other organic material to boost the nutrient levels in the soil. Your plants will love you for this.

Good tree planting.